Tuscan Archipelago

The Tuscan Archipelago stretches across the Tyrrhenian Sea between the Italian mainland and Corsica, seven main islands plus a scattering of islets that form a national park. Elba, the largest, is the hub — Napoleon's first exile, now a mid-market resort island with a working iron-ore history, good harbours, and a charter fleet based at Portoferraio and Marina di Campo. Most charters depart from Punta Ala or Castiglione della Pescaia on the Tuscan mainland, or from Piombino, the ferry port opposite Elba's north coast. The crossing to Elba takes two to three hours under sail depending on wind. Portoferraio, the main town, has a fine harbour beneath Medici fortifications and the Villa dei Mulini, Napoleon's modest residence during his months on the island. South of Elba, Pianosa is a former penal colony now part of the national park, with strictly limited visitor numbers — landing requires advance booking with the park authority. Montecristo, further south, is a nature reserve closed to all but a handful of permitted visitors annually. These restrictions are part of the archipelago's character: it is a cruising ground where anchoring regulations, marine park permits, and seasonal closures shape the itinerary. Giglio, to the south-east, is the most accessible of the outer islands — a three-hour sail from Elba's south coast or directly from Porto Santo Stefano on the mainland. The harbour at Giglio Porto is compact and atmospheric, with coloured houses lining the quay. Capraia, to the north-west and closer to Corsica than to Italy, is volcanic and wild, with a single harbour and a steep hike to the caldera lake. The maestrale is the prevailing summer wind, building from the north-west in the afternoon. Open-sea passages — particularly the crossing between Elba and Capraia, roughly 30 nautical miles — require respect for the fetch and the potential for confused seas where the Corsica Channel narrows. The libeccio, a south-westerly, brings unsettled weather and swell on the west-facing coasts. Provisioning is good in Portoferraio and adequate in Giglio Porto. Capraia has a small shop. Fuel and water are available at the main marinas on Elba and at Giglio. The Tuscan mainland offers excellent provisioning at Punta Ala and Castiglione before departure — the region's wine, olive oil, and produce are among Italy's finest.