Tahiti & the Society Islands

The Society Islands occupy the central South Pacific, a chain of volcanic islands and atolls that includes some of the most recognisable landscapes in Polynesia. Bora Bora's lagoon, Moorea's twin bays, the sacred temples of Raiatea — these are the reference points, and reaching them under sail adds a dimension that no resort can replicate. Raiatea is the primary charter base. The island has a deep lagoon shared with neighbouring Taha'a, enclosed by a barrier reef with several navigable passes. The charter companies — mostly based in the marina at Uturoa — offer a fleet of catamarans well-suited to the lagoon sailing and the inter-island passages. Raiatea itself is less touristic than its neighbours; the Taputapuatea marae, a restored Polynesian temple complex and UNESCO World Heritage site, is the island's cultural centrepiece. Taha'a, accessible within the shared lagoon without crossing open water, is known for its vanilla plantations — the scent carries offshore on warm days — and a handful of pearl farms open to visiting yachts. The anchorages along Taha'a's reef are among the most sheltered in the Society Islands. The passage from Raiatea to Bora Bora is roughly 20 nautical miles of open ocean, typically a beam reach in the trade winds. Bora Bora's lagoon, entered through the Teavanui Pass on the western side, is the destination that needs no introduction. The water colour — ranging from deep cobalt to pale turquoise over coral heads — is genuinely as vivid as photographs suggest. The anchorages in the lagoon are on sand, with good holding, and the views of Mount Otemanu from the cockpit are definitive. Moorea, south-east of Raiatea and visible from Tahiti, requires a longer passage or a repositioning from the Papeete charter base. Opunohu Bay and Cook's Bay cut deep into the volcanic interior, providing dramatic anchorages between ridgelines. Pass navigation is the key skill. Each island's lagoon is entered through gaps in the barrier reef where tidal currents can be strong. Passes should be transited on incoming or slack tide, with the sun behind the helmsman for visibility over the coral. Outgoing tide against incoming swell creates dangerous standing waves in some passes. Provisioning in Uturoa is adequate; Papeete, on Tahiti, offers the best selection. Fuel and water are available at the main marinas. Prices across French Polynesia are high — imported goods carry significant markups.