Sicily (Egadi & West Coast)

Western Sicily faces Africa rather than the Italian mainland, and the sailing here carries a different quality from the rest of the Italian coast. Trapani, the departure point, is a city built on salt — the shallow lagoons south of town still produce sea salt in traditional flat-bottomed pans, and the windmills that once powered the evaporation stand as landmarks along the coast. The Egadi Islands sit eight to twelve miles west of Trapani: Favignana, Levanzo, and Marettimo, decreasing in size and increasing in remoteness. Favignana, the largest, was the centre of the Sicilian tuna industry — the tonnara, or tuna trap, operated here for centuries. The former processing plant, the Stabilimento Florio, is now a museum. The island's coastline is indented with coves cut into the soft tufa rock, and the anchorage at Cala Rossa offers clear water over white sand. Levanzo, the middle island, has a single harbour and a handful of houses. The Grotta del Genovese, accessible by foot or boat, contains Neolithic cave paintings. Marettimo, the outermost island, is mountainous and wild, with hiking trails, a few fishermen's cottages, and an atmosphere of genuine isolation. The anchorage at the harbour is small; arriving early or having a backup plan is prudent. From Trapani, the coast south to Marsala follows the salt pans — flat, reflective expanses that turn pink in late summer with halophilic bacteria. Marsala's harbour is shallow and commercial, but the town is worth a stop for its Arab-Norman architecture and the Marsala wine producers that line the main road. The wind in western Sicily is less predictable than in other Italian waters. The maestrale and the scirocco compete, and the proximity to North Africa can bring warm, dusty air that reduces visibility. Passages to the Egadi are usually straightforward in settled weather, but the channel can develop a short, steep chop when wind opposes current. Provisioning in Trapani is excellent — the fish market is among the best in Sicily, and the supermarkets near the harbour cover all needs. On the Egadi, shops are minimal. Fuel and water are available in Trapani and at Favignana's harbour.