Sicily (Aeolian Islands)

The Aeolian Islands rise from the Tyrrhenian Sea off Sicily's north-east coast, a UNESCO-listed volcanic arc of seven inhabited islands and several sea stacks. Stromboli, the most active, produces near-continuous eruptions visible from the sea after dark — an approach under sail at night, with the summit flaring orange every fifteen minutes, is one of the more memorable arrivals in the Mediterranean. Most Aeolian charters depart from Portorosa or Capo d'Orlando on the Sicilian mainland, though Milazzo — the main ferry port — also has berths. The crossing from the coast to Lipari, the largest and most central island, takes three to four hours depending on wind. Lipari town has a citadel, an archaeological museum, and a working harbour that handles visiting yachts alongside fishing boats and hydrofoils. Vulcano, the nearest island to the mainland, is known for its sulphurous mud baths and a crater hike that offers views across the entire archipelago. The anchorage at Porto di Ponente is well-protected from the prevailing north-westerly. Salina, north of Lipari, is the greenest island — vine-terraced slopes producing Malvasia wine and capers that appear on every restaurant table. Panarea, the smallest inhabited island, draws a summer crowd to its compact harbour; the anchorage at Cala Junco is scenic but exposed. Stromboli dominates the northern end of the chain. The island has two settlements — Stromboli village and the smaller Ginostra — and no vehicle roads. The main anchorage off the village is a roll-on roadstead, tenable in settled weather but requiring a watch and willingness to depart if conditions change. The Sciara del Fuoco, the slope down which lava flows reach the sea, is on the island's north-west flank and best viewed from the water. Passages between the Aeolian islands are mostly short — Lipari to Salina is under five miles — but the open Tyrrhenian Sea can produce a swell from the north-west, and the volcanic seabed creates localised currents. Navigation is straightforward but requires attention to the commercial traffic using the strait between the islands and the mainland. Provisioning is adequate on Lipari, limited on the smaller islands. Fuel is available at Lipari and Vulcano. Water should be topped up at every opportunity — the smaller islands have limited supplies.