Dodecanese

The Dodecanese stretch along the south-eastern edge of the Aegean, a chain of islands so close to Turkey that the mountains of the Anatolian coast are visible from most anchorages. Rhodes, the largest, anchors the southern end with a medieval old town — a UNESCO World Heritage site ringed by massive walls — and the main charter base at Mandraki Marina. Kos, midway up the chain, provides a second departure point with good air connections and a more compact, walkable town. The cruising ground between Rhodes and Kos includes some of the most characterful small islands in Greece. Symi, immediately north of Rhodes, is the postcard stop — a steep harbour ringed by neoclassical mansions in ochre and terracotta, impossibly photogenic from the water. The anchorage fills early in summer; arriving before noon is advisable. Tilos, less visited, offers quiet anchorages and walking trails through a landscape that feels decades behind the more touristic islands. North of Kos, the chain continues to Kalymnos — a former sponge-diving island now better known for rock climbing — and on to Leros and Patmos. Patmos, where St. John is said to have written the Book of Revelation, has a fortified monastery above the harbour at Skala and an atmosphere that combines religious significance with a discreet sophistication. The meltemi affects the Dodecanese less consistently than the central Aegean but still dominates the summer weather. It blows from the north-west, funnelling between the islands and the Turkish coast. July and August can see sustained 20-25 knot winds with gusts higher in the channels. The passages between islands are mostly short — Kos to Kalymnos is under five miles — but some open-water stretches, particularly the run from Rhodes to Symi, require attention to sea state. Crossing to Turkey is possible from several islands — Kos to Bodrum is a popular day trip — but requires port clearance procedures in both directions. Charter companies vary in their policies on cross-border sailing; confirm before departure. Provisioning is good on Rhodes and Kos, adequate on Symi and Patmos, and limited elsewhere. Fuel and water are available at the main harbours. Eating ashore on the smaller islands is one of the pleasures of the Dodecanese — simple tavernas serving grilled fish, local cheese, and house wine at prices well below the Cycladic average.